Updated: Sep 10, 2020
"E Code Valley Pan Restoration"
Faithful followers of my blog posts know that a few months back I began work on a 2x4 intake manifold and carburetor setup. Since I have been taking advantage of the time and weather this week to prepare parts to sell at a later date, I thought I would bring out the special valley pan that is needed for a 2x4 install on a Y block Ford. These intake manifolds sit deeper because of the runners that mate the two carbs and because of the need for two heat tubes at the exhaust crossover. The photo above shows the difference between a regular valley pan (right) and the E code valley pan (left). I acquired this rare valley pan from a helpful soul who offered it to me because he had no plan to use it. Believing I had received a good deal, I traded a Borg Warner overdrive solenoid and from the looks of things both of us were pretty satisfied with the swap. I spent some time stripping as much paint as I could before doing any other work, but the main issue with the E code pan is pictured below:
The photos above give telltale evidence of what has taken place with many a Y Block valley pan - a loose oil fill tube! (Most probably caused by some over-zealous individual who grabbed the tube in an effort to remove the pan from the block.)
The video below is for those who are not interested in the details of a written explanation and photos, but if you keep scrolling down the finer points of information are available!
At first I believed I could just use some JB Weld and seal it up. However, the more I thought about it and the more I considered the time I had on my hands I thought to myself, "Why not weld the tube to the pan?" And so I did.
First up was to remove the tube. Easier said than done. I broke a quality tool in the process (not really made for this, so it was my mistake).
The next part of the process was to grind away most of the lip of the tube where it had failed to maintain its integrity with the valley pan.
After that I grabbed a piece of discarded 2" pipe, set it in a vise, and used it as a form to true up the hole for the tube. A ball peen hammer did a rather good job of straightening the surface for a better fit.
Once I ensured that the metal surfaces to weld were as clean as possible, I broke out the little MIG I have and used a series of tack welds, alternating back and forth, to secure the tube to the valley pan. I used .023 wire, and this procedure kept the metal from overheating and warping.
It should be pretty apparent that I used a wire wheel quite often to keep the surfaces clean and free of any contaminants. Using this method certainly takes more time, but I believe it was the best way to tackle the job.
The measures I took to get these valley pans clean are shown in the next four photos but are not covered in the video. Backyard engineering at its finest, but the pictures do not lie. The results are astounding to say the least. What always gets me is the level of gunk and debris that are always lurking in used engine parts!
I was able to get some painting done this week as well. We had dry weather and most days were in the 60s. That meant I could mask off those intake manifolds (yes, with a new crossover heat tube installed!) and thermostat housings and paint away. But first, does anyone know why I put these cans in a bucket of water? When I posted some of these photos to my social media pages I was surprised to find that there were enthusiasts who did not know.
Did I mention I also finished up a timing cover for a C2AE block I am determined to get on the engine run stand later this summer?
Yep! That's Dollar Tree oven cleaner - a whole lot cheaper than what you get at most retailers but just as potent. I also used it on the valley pans pictured above. More on some of these engine parts in a later blog post - this week I have begun the inventory for this build. I need the engine to run on the stand without using any of the parts I have on my 1955 Ford Fairlane - a tall order right now!
Thanks for being a subscriber - the list continues to grow. By the way, some of these parts are for sale if you are interested; I have to keep the website up and running and of course there are more projects in the future. My e-mail address is firstname.lastname@example.org.
Keeping the FaYth,
The Hot Rod Reverend
aka Daniel Jessup